A South Coast Survey - Sailing Sørlandet, Norway

 

Saltholmen Lighthouse, off Lillesand.

In this posting I’ll survey the inviting South Coast of Norway, a coastal region called Sørlandet since the poet Vilhelm Krag invented this name in the year 1902. Nowadays what is regarded as Sørlandet normally includes to counties, Aust-Agder and Vest-Agder, but my scope will be a bit wider all the same.

Sørlandet is regarded to have the most hospitable climate in Norway, and in a way this is true. The inhabitants too are known as friendly and welcoming. The coastal dialect, characterised by its soft consonants, are often seen as a symptom or prove even of this good-nature attitude. Concerning the climate, one should add thought, that Sørlandet has several rather exposes waters. In fact, coasting Sørlandet might turn out be a greater challenge than sailing along the west coast, where you may follow the intra-coastal fairway almost all the way until you – at last – will have to round the infamous unsheltered waters of Stad. What justify the common image of Sørlandet anyway, is the beautiful skerries with their characteristic, smooth rock slopes. What amazes yachters from countries like England, Denmark and Germany, is the possibility of making fast directly to the rocks in the many out-ports and natural harbours. This is possible due to depths and a minimum of tidal range: Sørlandet is one of the world’s so-called amphidromic points. Sørlandet also offers several inviting coastal towns with small, white wooden houses. Some towns have large visitor piers and most of the facilities you may wish. Especially east of Kristiansand, tourists will swarm in and near the towns during the Norwegian summer holiday season. Further out in the skerries, thought, there are room for everyone, and due to the old Norse “allemannsretten” – the outdoor recreation act – you have the right to make fast everywhere except at private piers. (Free access and passage applies to the shore and to uncultivated land. You can picnic wherever you want and may also put up a tent for the night - or sleep under the stars - but you must show consideration and care and keep at least 150 meters away from the nearest house or cabin. Make sure you take everything with you, including your litter).

 

 Ytre Rauane, summer in Kragerøfjorden

 

Kragerø - "Blindtarmen"

The coast from Langesund to Kragerø, is not really included in ”Sørlandet”, but is a wonderful coast anyhow. A special attraction is the Telemark channel, where you may run into the heart of the Norwegian inland, using your own boat or enjoy a cruise in one of the vintage ferries in route. (From Dalen, a trailer may even drag your boats (maximum 30 feet) across the mountain, towards Rosendal in Hardanger – and suddenly your are on the West Coast!)

 

The famous Norwegian painter Edward Munch considered Kragerø, to be the gem among the Norwegian costal towns. And Kragerø surely has a South Coast atmosphere, with its sunny summers, its many narrow passages, its pavement cafes, art galleries and last but not least, its tourist – normally called summer guests by the locals. The town has two visitor-piers. One – most suitable for really large boats – is inside of the island “Øya”. The other one, preferable for most boats, is inside of the islet Gunnarsholmen. This marina has excellent sanitary installations, and Gunnarsholmen is a nice recreation-area, even with an outdoor saltwater swimming pool. And your still are close to the picturesque streets of Kragerø (Don’t forget to try the famous sausages made by the local butcher, Brødrene Brubakken).

 The tourist information is at the bus station. Among other things they have a “self-service tour”, were you can explore the streets, houses and landscapes, painted by Edward Munch during the years he lived in Kragerø, from 1909 and onwards. There are nice billboards along the route, showing his painting.

 If you get bored of the town and its lightly clothed girls, 495 islets and skerries are waiting for you in Kragerøfjorden. The nice spots are to many to be mentioned. My crew and I stayed for two days in a beautiful “lagoon” sheltered by the many islets of outer (Ytre) Rauane. The entrance is safe enough if you only decide to follow the right channel. The water is somewhat foul, and this goes for most of Kragerøfjorden. The most common fairways are well market, though.

Guest harbour, Kragerø

Munch in Kragerø

Traditional "Kogg"s, Kragerø.

Anna Elise from Denmark goes alongside.

Jomfruland, off Kragerø

 Way out in the fjord, you’ll find magnificent islands like Stråholmen (Straw Island) and Jomfruland (Virgin Land). Stråholmen has a breakwater with visitor berths, but normally you can make fast outside of the breakwater too. The water surrounding the island is shallow, so watch out. The island has a distinctive landscape and a romantic yard surrounded by small, white houses, homes of the pilots, living here in the past.

Jomfruland is different from most of the Norwegian coast. Actually this moraine island reminds one more of Denmark. Towards the open sea you have an exposed pebble beach while the inside has sandy beaches. The island is outstretched but narrow, with lavish vegetation and marvellous paths both for hiking and cycling. The island has a roomy and well-run visitor’s marina, just by the cafe, near the two lighthouses. You may ascent the old one, paying a reasonable fee. Camping in the outfields is not allowed on this island, but there is a camping farther south on the island – near the grocery shop. The Kragerø ferry puts in both at the shop and at the marina (Tårnbrygga).

Jomfruland

Skåtøy, off Kragerø.

Stråholmen, east northeast of Kragerø.

The annual around Skåtøy-regatta in traditional Kragerø-tern dinghies

Risør, view from Olavsgapet.

 Sailing from Jomfruland to the southwest, you’ll pass Portør and Old Portør, nice spots I have heard. Further on – after a rather exposed stretch – you may call for Risør, the first South Coast town, strictly speaking. You may anchor in the bay to the west of Risøya, called Pjolter bay, or in Olavsgapet, between Enga and Lyngholmen. A nice anchorage is farther to the east, between Store and Lille Vardøya. The narrow opening to the north is often called The Pearly Gates, but with a sailboat you have heavy odds. Try the southern path. Risør is small but nice. There are guest berths near the town centre, but the harbour might be crowded in summer. Risør has a great annual wooden boat festival and a chamber music festival as well.

From Risør you’ll meet another exposed stretch until you can steer towards Lyngør, regarded as the best preserved village in Europe. This little town is built on several islands, and has no roads and consequently no cars. It may be difficult to fins a berth, and the town has no visitor’s pier – except those piers reserved for the excellent grocery shop and the Lyngør sail-makers loft (selling also nice clothing and all kind of high quality gear). The restaurant “Den Blå Lanterne”, offers a famous fish soup, but this place is not a bargain. If you have a dingy, the best option probably is to anchor in a roomy, sheltered and beautiful natural harbour, at the head of Håkesund. Here you are near the town and your boat is safe. If you want to leave your boat for a while, you may now rent Lyngør lighthouse, nearby.

Lyngør

The sail maker's loft, Lyngør.

 

If you run farther to the southwest, you can follow a fairway inside of Sandøya, in many ways similar to the famous “Blindleia” near Kristiansand, but quieter and less spoiled. Then you may enter Oksefjorden and later Tvedestrandfjorden, where you can make fast in several beautiful coves. After about an hour, you’ll reach Tvedestrand, an inviting town with an excellent visitor’s marina – here they even do your laundry, but bunkering is farter out in the fjord, at Sagesund. Since the town is now far from the main road, and many yachters skip the fjord, Tvedestrand is relatively quiet even in summer. If you are a bookworm, Tvedestrand is actually one of Norway’s two so-called “Book Cities”, and has an abundance of antiquarian bookshops. It also offers a tiny festival of philosophy every summer.

Back on the coast, from the mouth of Oksefjorden, you can follow the fairway further to the southwest, passing Kilsund on the starboard bow, and several outlaying islands on the port bow. After approximately three nautical miles, you’ll have to decide whether to enter the narrow Tromøysundet, calling for Arendal, or to go outside of Tromøya, gaining sea-room. Mind the shallows close to the shore. Two miles from Gitmertangen light at the Tromøya headland, Tromlingsundet opens – sheltered by the island Tromlingene. It offers a beautiful and safe anchorage. This landscape is a bit similar to Jomfruland off Kragerø. When Tromøya is passed by, you draw nearer to Torungen lighthouse and the dismantled lighthouse at Lille Torungen. In nice weather, it is possible to go alongside at Torungen (may also be rented). Another option is a visit at the island Merdøy. This once was the home of pilots, and the houses from the past are extremely well preserved. At least until 2011 there was a nice summer cafe at the island, and you should also visit the museum just by the pier, halfway up the northern shore. Boats until 30 feet are permitted to make fast and you may stay for one night. A stroll among the old houses and along the waterside is highly recommended.

Tromlingene, Arendal.

Merdø - off Arendal.

 Torungen lighthouse.
 

Tvedestrand.

Brekkestø, seen from the pilot hut.

"Svaberg", Brekkestø

"Blindleia"

Ny-Hellesund

Olavsundet, Ny-Hellesund

 View towards Farsund.

Søndre Katland Lighthouse, off Loshavn.

Lindesnes lighthouse

Korshavn

 Hidra, Kirkehavn.

The following coast is rather exposed. A popular out-port is Valøyene – recommended only in calm weather, though. A much safer and secluded option is the lagoon south of Alesøya, west of the larger Homborgøya. Opening is from the south, passing the islet Malmen (58.14’43 N 08.29’39 E). From here, the distance towards Lillesand is well over four nautical miles. This tiny town is another popular south coast gem, inviting you in with a roomy but often-crowded visitor’s marina. Hestholmbukta, a natural harbour just off the town, is a free and nice option. It’s a nice swimming spot, and with hiking opportunities too.

Southwest of Lillesand you’ll find the charming village Brekkestø at the southern shore of Justøya. Further to the southwest, the so-called Blindleia starts, a narrow but famous waterway, about six nautical miles long, winding its way trough a friendly water-scape – passing what once were the modest homes of sailors, fishermen and farmers, now rich peoples summerhouses, mostly, but jewels in the landscape all the same. Probably you won’t be the only one passing, but actually there are plenty of coves to hide in for the night, if that is what you want. We are now approaching Kristiansand, but first we have to find our way trough Ulvøysund, we must pass Kvåsefjroden where the sea is often heavy, then Stanggapet and Randøysund. Then the roomy visitor’s harbour in Kristiansand is not far away. West of Kristiansand, a passing trough the authentic out-port Ny-Hellesund, is a must. There is no visitor’s berth here, but you might anchor in the sheltered Olavssundet and in several other coves just by.

Little by little you have now left the normal radius of the Oslo yachters, and due to this, we enter a more peaceful and less populated part of Sørlandet. To slow down a bit, and enjoy this remarkable coast, is a good idea. Villages like Korshavn and the whole coast towards Loshavn, is recommended. But of course – a visit to South Coast towns like Mandal and Farsund, is tempting too. Farsund has one of the best visitor’s marinas in Norway, and is a nice place to stay weather-bound before passing the exposed Lista headland. The currents off this headland is infamous, often causing heavy sea. Luckily, charming fisher-villages like Rasvåg and Kirkehavn on the island Hitra, are waiting just around the “corner”.  Northeast of Hidra, at the head of the fjord, Flekkefjord is your last chance of enjoying a proper South Coast town. The next town is tiny Sogndalstrand, and 25 nautical miles northwest of Hidra; Egersund – also a charming “white town” – but not a part really, of Sørlandet. From Egersund and further on, the adventures of the West Coast is waiting – Vestlandet with its fjords and archipelagos. 

Sogndalstrand

Sogndalstrand